Please enable JavaScript to access this page.

8/13/2015

Winter Photography Tips

No comments:
Winter can be a very beautiful time of the year, especially if you live in a region that gets plenty of snow. We all know how children love the snow - there are endless possibilities for having fun and cold weather is usually not enough to stop them from enjoying it. On one hand, winter poses a beautiful time of the year for photography, particularly landscapes and portraits, and can be equally refreshing for wildlife photographers. On the other hand, it creates certain problems that are hard to figure out for beginner photographers, let alone their cameras. In this article, I will give you tips on how to photograph in winter and end up with well exposed, beautiful color images. I will also provide you with suggestions on when to go out to photograph and how to use snow to your advantage

1) Plan Your Day

First and foremost, remember - days are much shorter during the winter. Sunrise is late, and sunset is early, so you only have a few hours of potentially beautiful light to capture those photographs, be it landscapes or portraits. I know from experience how engaging landscape photography can be during winter and those hours just fly by. Plan your day carefully - remember that you will need to revise your location no matter what you choose to photograph, so you'd better get there before the time of the day that you find most suitable. No less important is your safety. I've suffered from cold weather myself having stayed still in one place for too long. Bring some hot tea along with you, and some food, even if it's just a sandwich. Dress warmly - it is better to be hot than cold. Make sure your mobile phone is fully charged - cold eats up those batteries very quickly. The same goes for your camera, bring at least one spare battery and keep it somewhere warm and close to your body.

see more at - https://photographylife.com/winter-photography-tips?v=0f177369a3b7

Searches related to Winter Photography Tips
winter photography ideas
comments winter photography tips
winter photography forum
snow photography tips
photograph winter
creative snow photography
snow photography techniques
cold weather camera tips

Lifestyle Photography Tips - True Lifestyle Photography and How to Get the Most Out of Your Session

No comments:
Lifestyle Photography Tips - True Lifestyle Photography and How to Get the Most Out of Your Session

According to Wikipedia lifestyle photography is "a style of portrait / people photography which aims to capture and document real-life events, situations, or milestones in an artistic manner and the art of the everyday." Photographers every day are advertising sessions as lifestyle photography, but in reality, are totally missing the mark.

I'm going to come at this from the point of family and couples photography. I am not well versed in the fashion point of lifestyle photography at the moment, so we'll save that for a later date.

Day after day I see photos of couples sitting in a park laughing and a photographer will tag it as "lifestyle." Is that really lifestyle? It's a moment but it's not a real life event. On any given day are you going to walk through this park and see them sitting there? Probably not and frankly, it's probably a park they've never been to before. Is the couple or family participating in something they would typically do?

Below is a typical photo that some would label lifestyle photography, but it's not. They're having fun, joking around and laughing, but they're not doing something they typically do. I caught a moment, I didn't catch a "lifestyle session." Little do you know they're right in front of a giant construction site that had this tent housing all their construction equipment. Do they hang out in front of construction sites on typical days? Nope. It was a location I drove by and they trusted my vision.

see more at - https://fstoppers.com/originals/true-lifestyle-photography-and-how-get-most-out-your-session-8297

Searches related to Lifestyle Photography Tips
lifestyle photography techniques
best lens for lifestyle photography
family portrait poses
what is a lifestyle photographer
how to take lifestyle photos
lifestyle photography poses
how to pose family lifestyle portraits
2nd story photography

Photography Composition Tips - 10 rules of photo composition (and why they work)

No comments:
In photography, it’s not just what you shoot that counts – the way that you shoot it is crucial, too. Poor photo composition can make a fantastic subject dull, but a well-set scene can create a wonderful image from the most ordinary of situations. With that in mind, we’ve picked our top 10 photo composition ‘rules’ to show you how to transform your images, as well as offered some of our best photography tips from the experts who do it on a daily basis.

Don’t feel that you’ve got to remember every one of these laws and apply them to each photo you take. Instead, spend a little time practising each one in turn and they’ll become second nature. You’ll soon learn to spot situations where the different rules can be applied to best effect.

Photo composition doesn’t have to be complicated. There are all sorts of theories about the ‘Rule of Thirds’ and more complex ‘Golden Mean’, for example. But if you pay too much attention to strict formulae, your photos will lose any kind of spontaneity.

In the real world, you’ll be working with a wide range of subjects and scenes, and this requires a more open-minded approach. What works for one photo won’t necessarily work for another.

The key thing is to understand how all the decisions you make about composition can affect the way a shot looks and how people perceive your photos. The way you frame a shot, choose a focal length or position a person can make all the difference (check out our Photography Cheat Sheet series for quick fixes to some of these problems).

see more at - http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/04/12/10-rules-of-photo-composition-and-why-they-work/

Searches related to Photography Composition Tips
5 elements of composition photography
rules of composition photography
digital photography school composition
learn photography composition
photographic composition techniques
rules of composition
picture composition
basic rules of photography

Tips For Newborn Photography - 10 “Must Know” Newborn Photography Tips!

No comments:
Newborn photography can come with many surprises, especially if you aren’t a parent.  I’ve compiled a list of newborn photography tips that have helped me tremendously and I am sure will be helpful for anyone interested in learning more about newborn photography.  Of course every photographer will have a different way or style of doing things but these are just some of the top things I’ve learned through the years as a newborn photographer.  Update: due to the popularity of this post and by requests of viewers, we have created the ultimate, comprehensive online newborn photography workshop giving you all the tools & resources needed for a successful newborn photography business, it’s on a special sale today.

1.  Posed vs Lifestyle: Know Your Clients’ Expectations

There are two types of newborn photography – posed/studio & lifestyle.  I love both for different reasons.  However, it is important to make sure your client knows what type you intend to do so there are no surprises during or after the session.

Posed/studio sessions – Typically must be done within the first 2 weeks of birth when the baby is very sleepy and “mold-able”.  The focus in this type of session is on shots of the baby looking perfect, usually in blankets, wraps, hats, & headbands.  The session can last up to 4 hours with feeding, potty breaks, and posing.  Editing this type of session also takes quite a bit of time as each image needs to go through Photoshop individually to get a polished end result.

see more at - http://www.colesclassroom.com/newborn-photography-tips-perfect-shoot/

Searches related to Tips For Newborn Photography
baby photography ideas
photographing babies
child photography tips
newborn photography ideas
photos of babies
photographing children
taking newborn photos
children's photography ideas

Moon Photography Tips - How to photograph the moon: an easy way to shoot moon pictures full of detail

No comments:
Taking pictures of the moon is one of the more popular subjects in night photography – but it’s also quite tricky to get right. In this tutorial we show you how to photograph the moon using a simple tried and tested technique that is certain to give you moon pictures you’ll be proud of.

How to photograph the moon: the easy way to shoot moon pictures with amazing detail

The moon may be shining big and bright in the night sky, but as anyone who’s tried to shoot moon pictures knows it’s tricky to do justice to with a camera. Pictures of what looks like a huge full moon to the naked eye can often end up showing a tiny white blob dotted on a black background.

Luckily, it’s not complicated to learn how to photograph the moon. It’s very easy to set up your DSLR to take a clear, well-defined picture of the moon like this one, and we’re going to walk you through how to pick the best night photography settings and equipment that you’ll need to get started with learning how to photograph the moon.

Knowing how to photograph the moon starts with getting yourself a long zoom lens to ensure you get close enough to capture detail. We used a Sigma 50-500mm. If you don’t have one in your camera bag, they’re easily rented.

A tripod is also a must to avoid camera shake when taking moon pictures. Also check the weather forecast in advance, as to photograph the moon you’ll need a clear and cloudless sky

see more at - http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2013/10/24/how-to-photograph-the-moon-the-easy-way-to-shoot-moon-pictures-with-amazing-detail/

Searches related to Moon Photography Tips
moon photography settings
moon night photography
tips on photographing the moon digital photography
photograph moon clouds
how to photograph full moon
photographing the moon settings
moon shots photography
photographing the moon

Star Photography Tips - Shooting Photos of the Stars

No comments:
Three top pros share their tips and techniques for epic star photos

The night sky has inspired artists for millennia, and it is no less a muse for photographers today. What’s more, digital technology, including lower-noise sensors and the ability to enhance and combine images during postproduction, makes shooting stars more accessible than ever—and requires no special equipment. Here’s how three stellar masters get their shots.

Matt walker has what might seem to be an ideal occupation for a photography enthusiast: he’s a horticulturalist who manages estate gardens in the San Francisco Bay area.

“Photography and gardening go really well together,” he says. “My job requires that I know the weather every day, and I became pretty good at understanding the weather early in my career. I love shooting landscapes with clouds, and being outdoors keeps me in tune with the conditions. I’m usually the first person to call out to my photographer friends about the approaching clouds.”

See more at - http://www.popphoto.com/how-to/2014/02/photography-tips-shooting-photos-stars

Searches related to Star Photography Tips
night sky photography tips
night star photography tips
night star photography
how to shoot stars at night
how to photograph stars
photographing stars at night
how to take a picture of the stars
night sky long exposure

Concert Photography Tips

No comments:
I was recently asked how many concerts I've photographed, and realized that it is coming up on thousand in the last 15 years. Any given week you can find me shooting anything from a 20 person house concert to The Who in a 30,000 seat arena, and anywhere in between. Tonight, it will be an up-and-coming band called The Spring Standards, who I've shot 7 times in the past. They are a dynamic, high-energy band with a lot of emotion, character and flying hair to capture.

Typically, my concert kit is pretty straightforward. I shoot Nikon and have moved from D70 > D200 > D700 > D3s > D810. All of these have served me well for concert photography, but ideally you want something that gives you a relatively clean ISO 1600, at the very least. My standard lens choices are the 24-70 f/2.8, the 70-200 f/2.8 and I generally toss a 16mm fisheye in the mix if I know I'll be in the pit or close to the stage. Tonight, I am planning to mix it up a little, maybe ditch the 24-70 for a wide prime, and see how this new D750 likes being pushed. I am interested to see if it is clean at 6400 and what a little more shutter speed can do for this lively band. The D810 has been wonderful, but 36mp makes for a long edit the next morning, and there's really not a lot of cropping I do for concert photography.

See more at - https://photographylife.com/concert-photography-tips?v=0f177369a3b7

Searches related to Concert Photography Tips
concert camera
concert photography flash
concert nikon
concert canon
concert photography forum
best concert photography
concert photography tutorial
concert photography tricks

50mm Photography Tips - 5 Tips for Noobs On How to Make the Most of Your New 50mm Lens

No comments:
You’re past the kit lens and now you’ve got your hands on one of the most valued pieces of glass any photographer will ever want or have–the 50mm lens. On an APS-C sensor camera, you’ll get the equivalent of a portrait focal length; that is unless you go for something that will give the field of view of a 50mm instead. On a full frame camera, you’re bound to take full advantage of the 50mm field of view in all its glory.

But now that you have the lens, how the heck do you take advantage of it?

Read more at http://www.thephoblographer.com/2013/09/24/5-tips-for-noobs-on-how-to-make-the-most-of-your-new-50mm-lens/

Searches related to 50mm Photography Tips
50mm composition
tips using prime lens
shooting with 50mm lens tips
50mm 1.8 photography
uses of 50mm 1.8 lens
using a canon 50mm 1.8 lens
tips for using a 50mm lens
canon 50mm 1.8 lens tutorial

Tips For Fashion Photography - 15 Tips On How To Break Into Fashion Photography

No comments:
Fashion and fine art photographer Zhang Jingna has previously written immensely popular articles about commercial shoots, personal projects and on how to improve your photography. This time she will share 15 tips on how to break into fashion photography. Here is how to make it, in Jingna’s own words.

In my last three articles, I talked about producing commercial and personal photoshoots, and tips on how to improve one’s photography. In this guide, I will share my thoughts on how to break into fashion photography.

Fashion photography is a highly exclusive and competitive industry. Getting in requires dedication, commitment, hard work, and often times, a dash of good luck and timing. There is no great secret or shortcut, it is going to be a tough journey, and you must be prepared for the long-haul.

see more at - http://www.profoto.com/blog/fashion-photography-2/how-to-make-it-as-a-fashion-photographer/

Searches related to Tips For Fashion Photography
fashion photography tips and tricks
fashion shoot tips
fashion photography poses
high fashion photography techniques
how to photograph fashion
thing to do for fashion photography
fashion photography tips and techniques
famous fashion photographers

Point And Shoot Photography Tips - 10 Tips for When a Point and Shoot is Your Only Camera

No comments:
This is the final tutorial in Andrea Riley’s photography series on getting the most out of your point and shoot camera. You can read the first two tutorials in her series here:

For the first time since I got into photography, I went on a mini vacation without my dSLR.  Last year, we went to Disney, and I only used my point & shoot at the amusement park.  For the rest of the attractions, my dSLR was my camera of choice.   My main reason for leaving my dSLR at home for this year’s vacation was to help remind myself of what situations are very difficult to photograph with a point & shoot and try to determine ways to get around those obstacles. Here are some tips I’ve found helpful for using a point & shoot for the different lighting situations I encountered on our vacation.

See more at - http://www.iheartfaces.com/2013/07/10-tips-for-when-a-point-and-shoot-is-your-only-camera/

Searches related to Point And Shoot Photography Tips
compact camera tips
point and shoot camera tips
compact camera photography tips
how to take good photos with compact camera
get the most out of your point and shoot camera
macro photography with compact cameras
best compact camera for macro shots
photography using compact camera

8/11/2015

Nightclub Photography Tips - Nightclub Photography Tips And Tricks

No comments:
No matter how good your creative eye is, taking photos inside a nightclub is one difficult challenge. Aside from the fact that you’ll be shooting in low light, you’ll also have to consider all the exciting things happening in the club.

It’s a party scene, so there’s going to be a lot of movement, particularly dancing. Taking photos of people moving can be really tricky if you do not know how to do it properly.

So, unless you want blurry shots, you should consider studying all the tips and tricks you can find about taking good nightclub photos. There’s a lot more that you need aside from using the most technically advanced camera. But, yes, it always starts with choosing the right equipment.

See More At - https://contrastly.com/nightclub-photography/
Searches related to Nightclub Photography Tips
nightclub photography tutorial
nightclub photography tips nikon
nightclub photography tips help
nightclub photography tv ep
nightclub camera
lens use nightclub photography
shooting nightclub photography
nightclub photographer

Indoor Sports Photography Tips - 5 Tips for Shooting Fast Action Indoor Sports

No comments:
Photographing fast action indoor sports is one of the most challenging situations for photographers due to low light and fast action. I’ve been evolving my skills over the past several years while taking pictures for a local wrestling club that I help coach. Wrestling is especially very difficult to shoot because it is extremely fast paced, very low light and tough to predict.
5 quick tips for photographing fast action indoor sports: see more at - http://unifiedphoto.com/268/

Searches related to Indoor Sports Photography Tips
photography help
best lenses for sports photography
best camera for sports photography
tips shooting help
indoor sports equipment
indoor sports photography settings
shutter speed indoor sports photography
shutter speed for sports

Disney World Photography Tips - Walt Disney World in Focus

No comments:
“The most exciting and by far the most important part of our Florida Project…in fact, the heart of everything we’ll be doing in Disney World…will be our Experimental Prototype Community Of Tomorrow!  We call it EPCOT.”  – Walt Disney

Spaceship Earth – the crown jewel of Epcot and probably the most photographed icon on Disney property, second only to Cinderella Castle.  Standing 180 feet tall and covered with over 11,000 aluminum facets, Spaceship Earth is one of Disney World’s most classic attractions.  Inside Spaceship Earth, guests board “time machines” for a dark, slow, ascending ride through time.   Your journey, now narrated by Judi Dench, takes you through audio animatronic scenes from the early origins of man into the 21st century, with each scene depicting advancements of human communication throughout history.  The ride culminates at the very top of the geodesic sphere with a view of Earth from “outer space.”  Then, it descends backwards while you answer questions on a touch screen that leads to an interactive experience upon disembarkation.  I won’t give away any more about that for those of you who haven’t ridden yet, after all part of the fun is being surprised, right?

See more at -  http://www.easywdw.com/category/photography/

Searches related to Disney World Photography Tips
disney world tips travel
get disney world tips
night photos disney world
tips on taking pictures disney world
walt disney world photography
disney world photography session
disney world photography jobs

Zoo Photography Tips - 15 Top Zoo Photography Tips

No comments:
With the half term holidays starting this week you may be looking for somewhere to go where you can take photos but still keep your kids entertained. The zoo is one such location, however the fences and glass keeping the animals and us safe can be a photographer's nightmare so here are a selection of tips to help you combat some of the problems you may encounter along with some general pointers to help you take better photos at a zoo.

1. Shooting through fences
One of the big challenges at a zoo is to clear the fence and, for the sportier ones amongst you, that doesn't mean jumping over it. Animals in cages tend to be surrounded by a fine wire mesh that often rises above eye level. So you often have to take photos with the cage in front of you.  If you don't adjust the camera's settings and position you will have poor photos with a blurred grid. To compensate you need to move as close as possible to the fence. Position the camera so the lens is pointing through one of the gaps or, when the fence has small gaps, make sure that the face of the animal you're photographing is in a gap.

If the camera has manual exposure control, adjust the aperture so it's at a wider setting, this will reduce depth-of-field (front to back sharpness) and throw the fence out of focus. Hopefully the fence will be so blurred it won't be seen in the photo.

If you can't shoot through or throw the fence out of focus you can often clone it out later using an image editing program.

shooting through a fence bad example shooting through a fence good example

2. The weather
You can never predict the weather and when shooting outdoors at zoos this can be a disaster if it rains. You may not only get drenched, but the animals will often head indoors, leaving many of the grazing areas empty.

You can usually gain access to the inner enclosures, but the shooting conditions and good viewpoints are often reduced. Also most of the visitors will be sheltering too, so the area is likely to be crowded.

If you're shooting outdoors in the rain make sure you're protecting your camera from the wet. Most cameras can cope with a small amount of rain, but a serious downpour could seep into the camera's workings and cause it to malfuntion. The key is not to get raindrops on the lens as this will make your photos blurred. Keep a lens cloth to hand and wipe the lens free whenever necessary. You can usually see the spots through the lens of an SLR or on a digital compact with an LCD view.

Alternatively you could ask your companion to shelter you and your camera while you take the shot using their coat or a brolly.

Most people think sunny days are the best, but the sun can cause harsh shadows, so detail is either lost in the shadows or the highlights. See tip 8 on flash for advice on balancing the shadows. Shooting on overcast days are usually better for zoo photography, as you will produce results that are more even toned and often better exposed. You may also find many animals are more active in such conditions.

3. Dealing with glass
Glass is a real problem in a zoo. Not only is it harder to get a sharp and clear shot, but greasy smudges from visitors who've either pressed their heads or hand against the glass cause the view to be blurred.

Carry a cloth to wipe the area you will shoot through. Press the camera against the glass to minimse reflections and attach a lens hood or hold your hand above or to the side of the camera's lens to prevent any further reflections causing distractions.

Watch out for other visitors leaning on the glass as this will cause movement which will be a problem if you're shooting with slower shutter speeds.

Some camera focusing systems can be fooled by glass. If this happens and the test picture is blurred switch to manual focus or use focus lock on something on the outside of the glass that's at a similar distance.

4. Watch the background
Zoo backgrounds are difficult to get right. If you're shooting up at a bird on a perch you'll have an extremely bright background, If the animal is in an enclosure you may see part of the cage in the background. To make the animal look as though it's in the wild you need to choose your position carefully. Look around the frame to spot distractions, avoid fence posts coming out of the top of the head, walk around the enclosure looking for the best vantage point. Sometimes you can position a mound behind the subject so the whole thing looks more natural. Try to isolate single animals, as two close together can end up with a shot that looks like you photographed a freak of nature - a giraffe with two heads or an eight legged rhino.

5. Time of day
The time of day is vital for the best shots. Animals are often more active at feeding times, some are fed inside, some outside, some are only active at certain times of the day, some like brighter weather, others like cold weather. Do a bit of research before-hand to help determine your route through the zoo. Feeding times are usually the crowd pullers so you have to be aware that you may not get an unobstructed viewpoint. If it's a particularly interesting animal you want to photograph head to that area at least 10mins before feeding time to get a good spot.

6. Focus
The focus point is critical in all photography. We've mentioned the bars of the cage and that you should shoot through them. If your camera has automatically selective focus zones, switch the camera to center focus to stop it focusing on the fence. If the animal is moving around and your camera has a focus lock you could prefocus on a certain point and take the photo as the creature enters the focus zone. Always focus on the eyes as they are the most important aspect. Remember to use focus lock or manual if you have problems shooting through glass (see Tip 3).



7. Action
When the animal is fast moving, you need to ensure the camera's shutter speed is fast enough to freeze the action. To do this you have two options - set it manually using manual exposure or shutter-priority exposure mode.

Try creative shots by using a slower speed when shooting apes swinging or animals roaming around at a fast pace. Following the path of the animal as you press the shutter is a technique known as panning and if you get it right you will have a sharp animal and a blurred background. With this technique aim for a shutter setting of around 1/8sec to 1/30sec, depending on the speed of the animal.

In the aquarium try holding the camera steady on a slow speed and let the fish swim past through the exposure - use the glass as your camera support. Get this right and you will have a creative abstract photo with colourful blurred streaks.

8. Flash

Flash is often not allowed at zoos, so make sure you respect the site's requests and look for camera warning signs. The signs are usually present when the animals are sensitive to flash - nocturnal areas, aquariums etc. If there are no signs you could use flash in fill-in mode to add some light to shadow areas on contrasty days, or for indoor shots where the light levels are lower. In most cases it's better to use available light if your camera has the necessary exposure range to cope. Most cameras can have their exposure sensitivity increased to take better pictures in lower light. See tip 9 on ISO.
9. ISO
The higher the ISO, the more sensitive the CCD is to light. This means the camera can be used in lower light to take a good photo. The downside is that pictures become noisier on digital. Noise looks like a detuned TV with very course coloured dots that ruin the photo, especially when detail is magnified.

So try to avoid going above the camera's safe ISO setting. This is normally around ISO 400 to ISO800. Some of the latest cameras can cope at much higher settings but it's better to be safe than sorry.

10. Shooting position

Many zoo animals are at a lower level to adults, so if we take photos from a standing position we will be pointing downwards. This tends to not only distort features, but also produce boring compositions. By kneeling down and becoming eye level to the animal (where possible) we gain a much better perspective and usually a stronger picture. If you physically struggle to go low try holding the camera at a low point at arms length. Shoot on a wider lens setting to be sure you get the whole animal in and crop the extraneous background out later. With a digital camera you can preview your shot and retake if you messed up. A few shots later and you'll get the knack.
When a fence or crowd is in the way you could attach the camera to a monopod, set it to the self timer mode and move it up above the obstruction. The knack here is gauging the angle and direction of the camera so you get the animal in the right part of the photo.

11. Fill the frame

Wherever possible use the zoom at the longer lens setting to fill the frame with the subject rather than including lots of the surrounds. This will not only give the impression that the animal is in the wild, but will also give pictures with much more impact.
Be careful, the more magnification you use the more chance camera shake will show up. As a guide aim to be using a shutter speed at least the same as the focal length of the lens in use, for example, with a 300mm lens aim for a shutter speed of at least 1/300sec.

12. Dealing with crowds
Be aware that you may get nudged about by some eager viewer who has no regard for you taking pictures, equally just because they are not taking pictures doesn't make you more important. So be respectful of others. Feeding times will make animals more active but will also encourage crowds. Walk around the enclosure looking for vantage points with fewer people. Longer lenses help in these situations.

shooting to fill the frame
butterfly

13. Switch to macro
Most cameras and lenses have a macro setting where the camera's focusing system is set up to shoot close range photos. Sometimes this can be just centimetres away from the subject. In a zoo you cannot normally get really close to the creatures so it's better use the longer lens setting in combination with the macro mode. Some zoos have a butterfly enclosure and here it's possible to put macro mode to full use.

14. Useful filters

FilterA polarising filter reduces glare off the coats of animals as fur can have a sheen that looks overly bright when light bounces off it. A polarising filter will reduce the bounced light so you can see texture and tones in the fur. The polariser is also good when shooting through glass as it reduces reflections. It's also ideal for use when shooting underwater animals as it cuts through surface reflections and glare.
A graduated grey filter will help when shooting animals against a bright sky. The graduated filter reduces the exposure in the brighter areas so it balances with the animal on the ground.

If you shoot jpeg mode remember to switch to the correct white balance setting indicated with icons in your white balance settings and, more importantly, remember to set it back when you return to the outdoors. Most digital cameras are quite accurate at guessing the correct type of lighting when the camera is set to auto white balance. Better still, if your camera has a RAW mode you can shoot using that rather than jpg and then you can adjust the colour balance later.

15. Camera safety
We've already mentioned keeping your camera protected when it's raining. Watch out for pickpockets too.

A camera left at your side on a bench is easy target, also one poking out of your bag, or loosely attached to your wrist could be snatched by an eager thief.

Watch out for condensation when moving from the cold outdoors to a heated enclosure, particularly ones that are heated to tropical climate. Your camera will steam up due to condensation and will take several minutes to acclimatise. Take photos when it's not ready and you will get very hazy results.

See more at - https://www.ephotozine.com/article/15-top-zoo-photography-tips-12495

Searches related to Zoo Photography Tips
zoo photography tips and techniques
photographing zoo
zoo photography tutorial
zoo photography reviews
take zoo photography tips
camera zoo photography
zoo photography days
taking photos at the zoo

Silhouette Photography Tips - How to Shoot a Silhouette

No comments:
Hot air balloons are wonderful subjects because of their bright colors and shapes. Photographing a hot air balloon while its being filled makes for interesting imagery. Here the photographer silhouetted two people who are standing inside the balloon as it fills, for a photograph with strong graphic elements.
Randy Ziegler photo of a cowboy silhouetted against a flag Randy Ziegler
In this photo, the colorful flag fills the frame, while the subjects in the background are in sihlouette (the cowboy, tree and fence).
David Handschuh photo of people on a bridge silhouetted against a sunset David Handschuh
Taken at sunset, the people gathered on the bridge are in silhouette. Its fun to read the body language of each of the people seen in silhouette.
David Handschuh photo of three cowboys and a dog silhouetted in the doorway of a ranch building David Handschuh
This photo is a great example of how one image can tell a story. Three cowboys and a dog are silhouetted in the doorway of this ranch building. We know its a ranch building by the title visible above the door, we see the cowboy hats silhouetted on the heads of the cowboys and we can see the various tools and other items along the back wall of the room.
David Handschuh silhouette photo of a lizard on a screen in the Bahamas David Handschuh
This little lizard was caught in silhouette, crawling along a screen door. With a silhouette, you don't need fine details to make out the subject matter.
1of5

Silhouettes make for dramatic photographs, relying on shape and oftentimes vibrant, saturated color to tell a story. Photographers use the silhouette to convey drama, mystery or mood in an image, but you can also create silhouettes when shooting video. The subject of a silhouette can be people, animals or objects, identifiable by their outline or black shape against a colorful or well-lit background. The stronger the shape of the subject, the more successful the image will be. While a silhouetted subject can show some detail, the less detail visible will add more drama to the photograph.

The key to a successful silhouette is backlighting. To create a silhouette, place a subject against a background and expose for the background, leaving the subject in shadow. Sunsets are great for silhouettes, because of their vibrant colors. You can also create silhouettes indoors by making sure that there is more light on the background, which you’re exposing for, than on the subject. Another way to shoot silhouettes is in the studio. Set up lights to backlight a subject, against a white background, and add colored gels to the lights, for a fun look.

When photographing a silhouette of a person, have your subject wear tight clothes instead of loose fitting clothing and shoot them in profile. The profile of a person whether a full-length or close-up shot of their face, will be more recognizable than if they were facing the camera. This is because there will be little to no light on the subject so it is the shape of the person that will tell the viewer they’re looking at a person.


See more at - http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Learn-And-Explore/Article/i2n419b7/how-to-shoot-a-silhouette.html

Searches related to Silhouette Photography Tips
tutorial silhouette photography
camera silhouette photography
silhouette photography guide
silhouette photography speed
how to take a silhouette picture indoors
how to do silhouette photography
silhouette photography ideas
how to take a silhouette picture inside

8/09/2015

Urban Photography Tips - Photographing Urban Landscapes

No comments:
Cityscape, Lower Manhattan

When we think of landscapes we tend to imagine wide-open vistas or dramatic mountains. But what about urban landscapes? Cities can be every bit as dramatic as the natural world and at least as dynamic. Not only do light and seasons change as in any landscape but the constant flow of people gives cities a serious buzz.

New York, especially, has a unique geography. Since Manhattan is an island the city has had to grow tall. That height, surrounded by water with its bridges and boats, makes New York a great place to photograph the urban landscape.

- See more at:http://photography.nationalgeographic.com/photography/photo-tips/urban-landscapes/#/mid-level-manhattan_67547_600x450.jpg

Searches related to Urban Photography Tips
urban photography composition
digital photography tips
candid photography tips
art night photography
photographing urban landscapes
urban portraits photography
urban photography ideas
city photography tips

Automotive Photography Tips and Tricks: A Beginner's Guide

No comments:
Like many automotive photographers, I got my start in taking photos by simply being a car enthusiast, and as a car enthusiast, it was natural for me to take part in various Internet-based forums. One of the main forums I was and continue to be involved in is the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, or "NASIOC." It was from this forum that these tips and tricks to automotive photography originated, and the thread is still going very strong today.

Below is the latest revision of my tips and tricks, which actually represents the main purpose of motivelife.com: to provide a solid, no-nonsense guide to learning and improving automotive photography. I started shooting cars professionally as part of Subiesport Magazine since the magazine’s inception back in 2004. I learned a lot along the way, since at the time I was really a complete newbie when it came to photography. Consequently, I must thank my good friend Josh Mackey (http://www.mackeydesigns.com) and Subiesport Publisher Ryan Douthit for their help and tutelage. Ferg, a NASIOC Super Moderator, asked me to write something up, so I am honored to pass on some of my basic automotive photography methods to NASIOC and now motivelife.com, and I hope that these can help both beginners and experienced photographers alike. By no means do I regard myself as all knowing in automotive photography, but I love to help people take better pictures and learn new techniques right along side me. Without further ado, we’ll first start out with basic composition.

- See more at: http://motivelife.com/topics/knowledge/218-automotive-photography-tips-and-tricks-a-beginner-s-guide-by-armin-ausejo-part-1

Searches related to Automotive Photography Tips
auto show photography tips
professional car and automotive photography tips
automotive photography photos
automotive photography techniques
car photography techniques
tips for photographing cars
car photography tutorials
auto photography

Instagram Photography Tips - 10 Composition Tips for Stunning Instagram Square Photos

No comments:
Thanks to the enormous popularity of Instagram, square photos have become the standard of mobile photography, forcing mobile photographers to adapt to this unusual photography format. In this article you’ll discover the best composition techniques for taking amazing square iPhone photos that will get your images noticed on Instagram.

Much has been said about composition techniques in traditional photography formats. From the rule of thirds to advanced composition guidelines, there’s an abundance of advice for composing photos in landscape and portrait orientation.

However, a lot of that advice is not directly applicable to photos in square format, which is why I decided to write this article. So let’s take a look at some important composition techniques to consider when taking square photos.

- See more at:http://iphonephotographyschool.com/square-composition/

Searches related to Instagram Photography Tips
cool instagram tricks
how to take good instagram pictures
what should i post on instagram
best instagram settings
how to put 4 pictures in one on instagram
what pictures should i put on instagram
how to put frames on instagram
instagram photographers

Cosplay Photography Tips - Preparing For The Photoshoot And Posing In Cosplay

No comments:
In the work-shop we’ll deal with these topics:

1. How to start the preparations for the photo shoot.

2. Main rules of posing (what is and isn’t allowed when modeling).

3. I’ll try to give many useful advises on everything related to photo shoots for models.

Let’s begin with the photo shoot preparations. The first step is to choose the place for the shoot. You have to decide where you want to work – indoors, on the street or in a studio with the equipment. If you prefer an outdoors shoot, you have to determine the time of day when you’ll start and finish the shoot. The photographer will choose the additional light depending on that, so it is necessary to talk through.

- See more at: http://www.cosplaygen.com/preparing-for-the-photoshoot-and-posing-in-cosplay-photography/#sthash.TEEcWNYq.dpuf

Searches related to Cosplay Photography Tips
cosplay photoshoot tips
how to take good cosplay photos
cosplay photographers
photography tips thread
cosplay photography guide
convention photography tips
pose cosplay
how to take good cosplay pictures

Car Photography Tips - The Ten Best Tips For Taking A Perfect Car Photo

No comments:
If you're a beginner car photographer, wondering why your pictures don't look as good as everyone else's, here are ten tips to get you on the right track.

These ten points should get you started. If you're looking for something more, check out these excellent guides on Speedhunters. Those guys are the best.

There are thousands of pro car shooters out there. Just go to Flickr and have a look around. If you have a question about a particular photo, send them a message or hit the forums. The community will give you an idea where to start.

9.) Use a proper camera
Forget your bloody iPhone. I know the latest ones are remarkably capable, but they are phones nevertheless. What you want is a camera. A DSLR, or a mirrorless, or a very good compact, something that was designed to do one thing: shoot under the widest possible range of conditions.

8.) Rule of thirds
Some say RoT is only useful for beginners. I disagree. It's a general composition rule that can make or brake a picture, no matter what level you're on. Use it wisely.

7.) Think about the composition
RoT is one thing. It can't save you all the time.

You're there, the car is there. That's great. Now think about what focal length to use, and check out what's in that frame. Do you want the car to fill it? How is the background? Any distractions? Play around, there's plenty of space on that memory card.

6.) Don't take pictures in a parking lot
Planning your location is important. If you can choose where to take the pictures, plan ahead and take your time to get the best place (preferably not your local parking lot) during the most ideal light conditions. It well worth the effort.

5.) Get a tripod
Useable tripods/monopods are super cheap, and they're a must under low light conditions, in case you want to use the self timer, during long shoots or when you want to be as accurate angle-wise as possible.

4.) Experiment with long exposure
After you got your tripod but no light, this is the way to go.

3.) Study light
Available light is almost always better than a built in flash, but if you spend more and learn how to use it, artificial lighting like strobes can do miracles, revealing details and shapes like you've never seen before.

2.) Panning to capture speed
Use the lowest possible ISO settings with f/ value set to around 11-16 and a shutter speed that's roughly twice the speed of the car in km/h. That's the basic idea, and the result is the most dynamic shot you've ever managed to capture.

1.) Go the extra mile and try things
Good photographers run, jump, climb and crawl to get the material they want. Don't be afraid to get dirty.

Searches related to Car Photography Tips
car photography techniques
car photography settings
best camera car photography
indoor car photography
photography car show
tips shooting cars
shooting car photography
photographing cars

8/08/2015

star trail photography tips

No comments:
One of the lessons in the Photography Lab series I teach is a lesson on night photography, specifically shooting the stars. There are two essentials to know before going out to shoot stars your first time.

ONE: The Earth is rotating. This means you can photograph star constellations, but after about 15 seconds, you will start to get blurring in your stars because of the movement of the Earth.

TWO: You should know a couple of constellations before you go out: the Big Dipper and Orion are the two I use to orient myself.

Why the Orion and The Big Dipper? First, they are extremely bright and easily found in the night sky. Second, besides being my favorite constellation, Orion is usually high enough in the sky to photograph with other stars around, but it can also sit low so you can get nice foreground elements in your compositions. Finally, use the two stars which make up the pouring end of the Big Dipper to find the North Star. Look at the bottom star in the dipper part of The Big Dipper, the non-handle end. Draw a from the bottom star in the dipper to the top star in the dipper, then continue this line until you see the Little Dipper. This line (and these two stars) point to the last star in the handle of the Little Dipper. Why is this important? The last star in the handle of the Little Dipper is Polaris – the North Star.

If you know where Polaris (The North Star) is located, you can point your camera in this direction and, using long exposure times, you will get circular star trails instead of blurry constellations.

how to photograph star trails

When I shoot stars, I use two lenses: a Canon 10–22mm and a Tamaron 28–300, which I use in the 28mm–80mm range.

I set my camera to M (manual) and use the following settings:

    Aperture: widest setting f/2.8 | f/3.5 | f/5.0 depending on focal length
    ISO: 100 or 200
    Shutter Speed: BULB setting
    White Balance: Auto or Tungsten
    Focusing: Manual / Infinity

Some other items you may want to bring along:

    Small flashlight. You can see your gear, get things set up, change your camera settings, and change your release cable settings. You can use the flashlight to do a sweep of the ground before you leave to make sure you didn’t leave anything behind. Use the flashlight to paint the foreground with light to give your photographs more compositional drama.
    Small laser pointer. I haven’t tried this yet, but when I was shooting tonight, I couldn’t see what I was composing through the viewfinder. It’s dark outside when you’re photographing stars! I would take 30 second–45 second photographs to test my compositions. I wondered about using a small laser pointer to hold on top of my lens to see exactly where the lens is pointing.
    Chair. You’ll be using loooong shutter speeds. You are going to want to sit. Well, I would want one. I want to look up and not get dizzy. A lounge chair is even better! Of course, if you’ve driven to a remote location, you can always sit in your car while waiting for exposures to take.

    Shutter release cable. Some DSLRs have shutter release cables to trigger the shutter. Some you can even set up to take a photo every X minutes with an exposure time of X up to 99h 99m 99s.
    Stop Watch. Most cameras have a 15min shutter speed max – but do have a bulb setting you can use if you want longer exposure times but don’t have a shutter release cable. In bulb, you shutter will open once you press the shutter button – and will not close until you press the shutter button again. If you use BULB – you may want a stop watch to help keep track of your exposure time.
    Blanket. It’s January, and here in New England, it’s COLD in the wee hours of the morning. In addition to a nice coat/jacket, I’ll have a blanket to wrap up in and help stay toasty.
    Hot Chocolate / Coffee / Tea. Did I mention it’s cold in the middle of the night?! Plus—it’s the middle of the night! And I’m bundled up toasty and warm on a lounge chair, staring at stars. Going to need something to help keep me awake.
    Tripod. Yes, I know. I said it: tripod. Former students, it’s okay. I know I preach the power of less-is-more, but in this case, you will definitely need a tripod. You’re going to also need a tripod which swivels so you can point you camera in the right direction. Night shots of star trails and meteor showers require LONG exposures. A rock or car roof won’t work here.
    Friend. Take a friend to share the experience with you. You’ll have someone to talk to (and help keep you from getting bored while you wait for those 1 and 2 hour exposures) and you’ll have great story to tell about taking tons of photographs of stars and meteors and of course – you’ll have the great shots you take too!!


    Camera / Lens. You can’t really take photographs if you don’t have your camera… been there—couldn’t photograph that!!
    Memory Cards. Make sure you have a large memory card available and have an extra one just in case.
    Batteries. How many?? Three. Where are they? Charged, set in the camera. Charged, set in your pocket. Set charging in charger. Really, I can’t stress extra batteries for night photography enough. Keeping the shutter open for long periods of time sucks up TONS of battery energy. Where a battery will last you for 6 hours of event photography, you might get 2 or 3 hours of night photography.

Follow me as I continue to experiment with star photography techniques. You can see my attempts (success and failures) in the gallery at http://www.LiteWriting.com.

Now you know what gear you need, what settings to use, and where to point your camera. It’s time to get out there and try some star photography for yourself!

About the Author:
Professional photographer Loreen Liberty (www.litewriting.com) has been taking photographs since her early teens, and in the professional industry for the past nine year. After many successful years as a wedding and portrait photographer, Loreen decided to turn her attentions to teaching photography full time. “It gives me more time to practice my craft and be artistic for myself.

Extensive tutorials on light painting, panoramas, spherical panoramas, night sky exposures, infrared, fisheye, bokeh, timelapse and more. You will be taking steel wool light painting shots and star trail exposures in no time. This photography tutorial eBook is designed to help you master challenging lighting conditions no matter your experience level. Currently 50% off for the launch sale until the end of the month.

Searches related to star trail photography tips
star trail photography techniques
star trail photography tutorial
star trail photography tips tutorials
star trail photo techniques
star trails velvia
photographing star trails
how to photograph star trails with canon
how to shoot star trails

christmas photography tips

No comments:
Christmastime (and winter) is the most energetic and exciting time to take photographs for a variety of reasons – the natural elements, the captivating and imaginative decorations (including Christmas lights) and the festive mood that overcomes whole communities. You can photograph during the day, but some of the most evocative images can be found at night. The brilliance provided by the pure white snow adds some challenges, but there are some benefits too. Let’s take a look at how to get the most effective Christmas photos.

Recommended Settings

There’s usually going to be a lot of additional, practical light sources “on” during Christmastime (all those Christmas lights) and these will probably bump up the ambient light level to a certain extent, but not so high that you can shoot at ISO 100, so go for 200; even when you’re inside. Shutter speeds between 1/30 and 1/90 should suit you the best, as you should try for aperture settings of f/2 to f/5.6; you’ll get shallow to moderate depth of field at these settings, which will add to the ambiance, by keeping the illuminated background just out of focus.

Recommended Equipment

A fast zoom lens is great for Christmastime photography, try for a 28 – 80mm or something similar; this way you’ll have a wide angle for group portraits and shooting houses/buildings that are magnificently decorated, and you’ll also be able to grab intimate and inviting close-ups. Consider having your tripod available. Even if you don’t use the timer function the tripod can be helpful for stabilizing the camera for high angle shots (which might be the best/only way to get everyone in a group shot). Use a corded flash or a flash with a tilt/swivel head to avoid having the flash fire head-on at your subjects. A head-on flash will wash out not only the skin tones, but the vibrant color cast from all the Christmas lights as well.

Conclusion

The Christmas holiday is a heavily photographed event, so it’s important to approach the subject with an eye for doing something different and compelling. Utilize the ornaments and the lights to spruce up the background elements of your shots (remember to experiment with the bokeh technique for something subtly different), focus on your subject’s eyes and work to position your family in intimate positions that emphasizes their close relationship and the joy this season instills in everyone. The preparation is just as important as the finished product when it comes to Christmas, so get in there and take photos of the tree trimming activity as it happens.

Searches related to christmas photography tips
santa photography tips
christmas picture tips
christmas photo ideas
christmas card photo
christmas card ideas
christmas photo props
christmas tree photography tips
christmas photography ideas children

eye photography tips - How to Photograph the Human Eye, Iris or Pupil

No comments:
There is no need to explain the importance of eyes to a living being; but why photographers fret so much about them may look a bit intriguing. “Focus on the subject’s eyes”; may probably be the first tip any photographer get in the beginning of his career. A photographer’s torment with eye is not limited to shooting it but also in post-production? There is even countless number of tutorials, plug-ins, Photoshop actions and brushes etc. to help the subjects’ eyes “pop”!

 Even though many photographers have not taken enough pains to really explore the human eye with a macro lens. From a distance the only thing that we observe about human eyes are that they are smooth orbs, always moist and they do come in many different shades of blue, green, brown and black. But enter the amazing world of macro, find a willing subject and you’ll be stunned at the amount of detail present in the eyes; it’s nothing less than mind-blowing.

Here in this article we will discuss certain tips that will of real help in photographing the human eye in all splendors.

Tips for Photographing the Human Eye

 1. Get yourselves a true macro lens, or any other means of obtaining life size (1:1) magnification. A close up filter, lens reverse ring, extension tube etc will do.

2. Continuous light sources (preferably soft), are the best for photographing human eyes, so find a well lit spot and seat your subject such that the light is falling on the eye at an angle that causes only the least amount of reflection.

3. The eyes reflect everything around them, including the camera, lights, the photographer and the surroundings; so experiment and find the best lighting angle which gives best results.

 4. When iris is photographed the in low light situations; the pupil will expand making the photograph un-interesting.

5. Macro lenses which provide an angle of view of 100mm or narrower is best as they provide more working distance, which will make the subject comfortable.

6. Although it’s not an absolute must, using a tripod will help make things easier and improve chances of getting great shots.

 7. Keep the sensor parallel to the eyes.

8. Make subject to look directly into the lens, assuming you are shooting head on.

9. Shift the lens to Manual mode and focus on the iris manually.

10. Use a minimum aperture of f/8 to get sufficient depth of field and capture all details.

11. Keep the shutter speed fast enough to eliminate any blur caused either by camera shake or subject’s movement.

12. Get over with the session fast. It’s difficult for anyone to keep eyes open for long, they’ll blink and if the purposefully keep it open the eyes will soon begin to water. Trick is to ask your subject to keep both eyes shut, when everything is ready ask them to open their eyes, fire of few quick shots, ask them to close their eyes when you review your pictures. You’ll get what you need in a couple of bursts.

I’m sure if you are doing this for the first time, you’ll be stunned with what you see, at macro magnifications the human eyes with all their detail seems almost alien, but not less beautiful.

Any effort spent on capturing the ‘reflections of a golden eye’ doesn’t go waste as eyes have traditionally been the most powerful weapon on the earth; by a mere wink of her eyes; Helen of Troy could launch a thousand ships and burn the topless towers of Ilium!

Searches related to eye photography tips
close up eye photography tips
how to take eye photography
wild eye photography
mountain eye photography
blink of an eye photography
wonky eye photography
father's eye photography
raven eye photography

fall photography tips - 10 Tips for Shooting Autumn Foliage

No comments:
Location

"It's everything," says nature photographer Rod Planck, who ought to know: his fall color photo tours sell out faster than any other tour or workshop he offers, which is a testament to the image opportunities and overall inspiration of fall color. If you're thinking of focusing a photography vacation around the colors of autumn, or just want to spend a day or two in pursuit of the season's hues, Rod suggests three major regions to consider: the New England states; the Colorado Rockies; and the upper Midwest of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota (all the photos here were taken by Rod in his home state of Michigan). If you live elsewhere, your best bet is the website of your state's tourism board for timely, peak fall color information, perhaps even a fall color hotline. And yes, there are apps for fall color's best times and places; Google will reveal all.

Light

Not all things need be, or should be, photographed in bright sun. "People at the autumn tours will often tell me that the weather report calls for sun for the next seven days," Rod says, "but that's not good news." In autumn, sunlight is desirable only early and late, when it's essentially sidelighting. "An overcast day is best—first, because you can shoot all day long, and second because the light is soft and even." But doesn't overcast mean that the intensity of the color is decreased? Nope, not at all; in fact, just the opposite: autumn colors are saturated colors, and they contrast nicely with a gray day. While a bit of gray sky is okay in your photo, remember to avoid expanses of uninteresting white sky. What's often best is cloud cover illuminated by sunlight; the first photo here is a nice example of that.

Exposure

Rod uses Matrix metering for everything, regardless of sunshine or clouds, then checks the histogram to make sure no highlights are being clipped. "I'll check the LCD to see what I'm getting and dial in some exposure compensation if I need to increase or decrease saturation." Another exposure setting tip: "Cloud cover will give you less light, and because you're photographing landscapes, generally you won't want to sacrifice depth of field by opening up the aperture, so I suggest pushing the ISO to keep your depth of field at a good setting while maintaining a high shutter speed if you're hand-holding the camera."


Support

"But I use a tripod for everything, so shutter speed isn't usually an issue. If it's calm weather, I'll shoot at the lowest ISO setting and not really care how long the exposure is."

Elevation

One of the things that'll give you a sense of the expanse of an area and the color that fills it is height. "A lot of locations afford the opportunity to drive up and get above the color," Rod says, "and when you can do that it gives you a grander feel for how much color there is in the area." Search out what Rod  calls "the famous overlook" in any area of fall color. "There'll usually be one, and there'll be lots of people photographing there every morning." Rod often seeks elevations that give him a straight-on view of a fall color array, as in the second photo here, for which he was up high enough to look straight into central portions of the trees. "I take advantage of anything I can—a stump, rocks, hills. I've stood in the back of a pickup truck." And don't forget to look down, too. "Late in autumn, the forest floor is as colorful as the treetops were," Rod says, and offers the third Image as an example.

Water

Streams, creeks, ponds and rivers can become magical in the fall. Rod sets the scene: "There's a maple tree on one side of the stream, and you're on the other side in the shadow. The maple gets sunlight on it and it reflects yellow into the stream in front of you; everything else is reflecting blue from the sky." When the leaves are turning, the spot you'd just pass by at any other time of the year becomes a great photo location as water gives you reflections, contrast and, with long exposures, texture.

Lenses

Rod's an advocate of the "power of longer lenses." All the photos here were taken with 85mm, 70-200mm and 300mm NIKKOR glass.

Fog and Mist

They can soften and mute colors, but they add mood, atmosphere, even mystery. The fourth image is a rather straightforward capture of morning mist rising from a lake, while the fifth is a bit more complex: "The trees were just starting to get some sunlight, and I focused the camera on the foreground reflections, which are still in the shade, so the mist is a different color temperature, and the bottoms of the trees are still in shadow."
Subtleties

Consider some close-ups that are related to autumn but not to the season's bright colors, like the image of mushrooms growing on the side of a tree, or the photo of a milkweed seed pod with seeds being dispersed by the wind. "This is color that fall brings to particular plants," Rod says, "and the photos were taken during peak times of color in the area. Fall color is an excuse to go out in the woods; it doesn't mean that everything you photograph has to be defined by colorful leaves."

Explore

"Fall is a great time to drive around to look for spots where there's color," Rod says. "You'll find places to photograph right then, and you'll locate other spots to come back to later on, and in later years—your own private, favorite spots. You can spend the entire day out in the woods during those cool, clear, crisp days of color. Twilights are better, the sun's at a lower angle for a longer time, sunsets are intense. The autumn light will bring color and texture to a lot of things. Fall is an awesome time to be out all day long looking for beautiful photos."

Searches related to fall photography tips
tips fall landscape photography
fall photography for kids
autumn photography tips
fall pictures
pictures of fall leaves
photographing autumn colours
pictures of autumn leaves
images of autumn leaves

Long Exposure Photography Tips

No comments:
A useful technique in night photography is the long exposure. The effects that can be captured with a long exposure are stunning and have an ethereal quality. The most important tool that you will need is a sturdy tripod, and a DSLR camera that allows for long exposures.

Recommended Settings

The main thing to keep in mind while deciding on the correct exposure is how to capture both the shadows as well as the highlights. If you are successful in obtaining the right shadows, you will be able to produce an excellent night scene that will win you compliments. When taking long exposures, the key is to keep the shutter open only long enough for the desired effect. If you keep the shutter open too long, you’ll lose the details in whatever light source is illuminating your subject, and you might even lose the ability to identify what the subject is. When trying to create a light trail, the shutter should be open for at least 1 second, and therefore requires a tripod. Use shutter priority mode and start with 1 second shutter speed and see what the result is; if the trail is too short, add 2 seconds, and then keep adding 2 seconds until you get the lighting effect that you want (the beauty of digital photography is that you’ll know immediately). If you have too much blurring, then your shutter was open too long, and you need to dial it back down maybe a full second.

Recommended Equipment

In addition to your digital camera, you need a sturdy tripod to take good night photographs. This will ensure you stabilize your camera firmly, thereby avoiding blurriness in your pictures. In order to practice night photography, your camera must have the option for manually setting the shutter speed and aperture.

Conclusion

Taking long exposure images at night can be perfected with practice and by learning to recognize the lighting conditions and how to adjust the camera to meet those conditions. Depending of what you have to work with, your shutter speed can be anything from 1/60th of a second to several minutes. What makes long exposure images special is that each image is unique, since light trails move in unusual ways, and with practice you should have a collection of photos that are one of a kind. The unique images available using long exposures night is a whole realm of photography that many people do not attempt. Stunning images can be your reward for trying this technique.

Searches related to Long Exposure Photography Tips
settings for long exposure photography
long exposure photography ideas
long exposure photography techniques
how to take a long exposure picture
low exposure photography
how to shoot long exposure photography
time exposure photography tips
how to make a long exposure photo

8/07/2015

Foschi Wedding Photography

No comments:
Foschi Studio has been family owned and operated for over 30 years.  We are located minutes from I95 in North Wilmington on the corner of Foulk and Naamans Road.

From your very first consultation to the end of your wedding reception, you will be treated like part of the family.  We strive to capture moments filled with romance, joy, laughter and love on your special day.  Take a look at our galleries and see for yourself just how crafty our photographers can be!

We offer a variety of packages specializing in engagement portraits, wedding day photojournalism and videography.  We’re sure to have a package to meet all of your needs.   We welcome the opportunity to meet with you and discuss your wedding day wishes. Our photographers focus on your own individual styles and personalities in order to capture life long memories.

7/21/2015

Brentwood Photography : Clinton Brentwood Lee’s response to an anti–same-sex marriage client

No comments:
brentwood photography club,brentwood photography taekwondo,brentwood photography facebook,lindrum photography brentwood,jjj photography brentwood,cinnamon photography brentwood,newborn photography brentwood
Clinton Brentwood Lee, a Brentwood photographer from St. Petersburg, Florida. He has traveled the world for more than 15 years shooting weddings and other events for his company Brentwood Photography.

Brentwood Photography On Friday, like many people on Facebook, Lee changed his profile picture and cover photo for his business page to show support for marriage equality in the wake of the Supreme Court’s historic ruling.

“I think it’s important to show support for gay marriage because we are all human beings just wanting the same thing,” he said. “Someone to love us, and the same protection and rights under the law. Everyone deserves their ‘happily ever after.’”
brentwood photography club,brentwood photography taekwondo,brentwood photography facebook,lindrum photography brentwood,jjj photography brentwood,cinnamon photography brentwood,newborn photography brentwood

Search Result :
brentwood photography club
brentwood photography taekwondo
brentwood photography facebook
lindrum photography brentwood
jjj photography brentwood
cinnamon photography brentwood
newborn photography brentwood
photography photos
brentwood photography taekwondo
brentwood photography facebook
brentwood camera club
justin bailey photography brentwood
lindrum photography photographers
lindrum photography cm15 9ax
photographers brentwood
lindrum photography reviews
lindrum photography facebook

Resource From : http://www.buzzfeed.com/stephaniemcneal/this-photographer-had-the-best-response-after-losing-a-clien#.dknw5zjVD

4/07/2015

Voigtlander Super Wide-Heliar Aspherical II 15mm f/4.5 Lens

No comments:
Amateur PhotographyThe Voigtlander Super Wide-Heliar Aspherical III 15mm f/4.5 is the third generation update to a lens that has been popular with Leica M mount shooters since Cosina licensed the Voigtlander brand name in 1999.  Made in Japan, the new lens has the same optical design as its predecessors but includes the rangefinder coupling, 52mm filter thread and modern Leica M mount (instead of the original screw mount) introduced in the 2009 re-design.

 Performance
 Subjective assessment of images captured with the Voigtlander Super Wide-Heliar 15mm lens on the Sony α7 II camera showed them to appear somewhat flatter and not quite as sharp as images from the 16-35mm lens we used for our original camera tests. This is probably a result of how the light reaches the sensor (see above) and how it is handled (or not) by the image processor. The phenomenon has good and bad aspects.

Flatter images are more likely to record the widest possible tonal gamut, whereas very contrasty images often compress highlight and/or shadow detail and either or both can be lost. Flatter images also provide more scope for post-capture processing and it is easy to boost contrast and saturation to whatever extend the photographer desires.

But, the flatter the image, the less easy it is to discern edges precisely. This can make manual focusing difficult since if you can't resolve edges, you can't see whether the lens is precisely focused.

This lack of clarity may have influenced our test results, despite the fact that we conducted four sets of tests, re-focusing after each. The results presented here are an average the figures obtained in the best two test runs.

Throughout our tests the lens failed to reach the resolutions expected from the α7 II's sensor, although the highest resolutions came acceptably close. Edge and corner softening at wide apertures was both observed and confirmed by our Imatest tests in test shots taken without in-camera correction, as shown in the graph of the results, below.

Lateral chromatic aberration figures were mostly within the low range, edging into the moderate range at the widest aperture. Some purple fringing was found in test shots, particularly in outdoor subjects where contrast was high. In the graph below, the red line separates negligible from low CA, while the green line marks the lower boundary of moderate CA.



Vignetting was noticeable in raw files taken with the widest aperture settings, although it was less visible in JPEG shots taken with the camera's built-in corrections engaged.  Interestingly, we found few instances of the colour shifts reported in reviews of previous versions of the lens.

Rectilinear distortion was remarkably low for a lens of this type. We found no obvious distortion in shots taken with the camera back parallel to the subject. However, even a tiny tilt caused vertical lines to begin converging. (This is often a 'wanted' result of using very wide angle lenses and some interesting images can be obtained by exploiting it.)

The lens also appeared well able to deal with strong backlighting and we had no instances of flare in any test shots. Bokeh is never a consideration in lenses with such a wide depth of field, which aren't ideal for close-ups or portraiture – unless you want to capitalise on the inherent characteristics of the lens.

onclusion
 Although not a perfect match for the digital sensor on the Sony α7 II camera, the review lens was able to produce some interesting images. The combination of the small, pan-focal lens and compact full-frame camera body was great for street photography. It was possible to shoot subjects close-up without them being aware of the camera, using just the monitor screen to compose shots.

The wide depth of field at smaller aperture settings allows photographers to set the aperture and focus rings and simply aim and shoot. The most practical aperture settings are between f/5.6 and f/11, after which diffraction starts to reduce image sharpness. The virtual lack of rectilinear distortion makes this lens suitable for some types of architectural photography.

If you can handle the inherent limitations of the lens design, it's well worth a look. It's considerably smaller and lighter (and a bit cheaper) than Sony's  nearest equivalent, the Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS, which we reviewed recently. It also covers a wider angle of view than Sony's SEL28F20 FE 28mm f/2 lens plus the  dedicated fish-eye converter lens (which also covers the 16mm equivalent angle of view).The only way to buy this lens in Australia is from the local distributor. Equivalent Voigtlander adapters for Canon and Nikon full frame DSLRs are not listed on the Mainline Photographics website currently. (Older versions of the lens, both new and secondhand, can be found online.)

3/28/2015

Fujifilm Fujinon XF 16-55mm f/2. 8 Ur LM WR assessment

No comments:

Fujifilm Fujinon XF 16-55mm f/2. 8 Ur LM WR assessment – Introduction


The most popular lenses between DSLR photographers could be the 24-70mm f/2. 8. It’s a lens praised for the versatility because fast aperture along with useful focal range, and these attributes allow it to be a decent tool for everything from portraits to landscapes.
The new Fujinon XF 16-55mm f/2. 8 Ur LM WR fulfils this specific role for Fujifilm X users, boasting consistent f/2. 8 highest aperture throughout its 24-84mm (equivalent) zoom lens range. This directly matches the ever-popular 24-70mm, although just outdoing it for the long end.

Fujifilm Fujinon XF 16-55mm f/2. 8 Ur LM WR assessment – Features


A complete of 17 aspects in 12 groups are used to construct this specific lens, including a few aspherical elements designed, says Fuji, to control pincushion and barrel distortion. Three additional ED glass lenses are included to reduce lateral and axial chromatic aberration.

An improvement of the inside focusing system on this lens is that it doesn’t rotate the front element. This causes it to be much more user-friendly when using filters such since ND grads or perhaps polarisers. The lens accepts widely available 77mm filters. Nine rounded aperture blades make-up the iris diaphragm.

An f/2. 8 aperture combined with an APS-C-sized sensor will make a depth of field similar to f/4. 5 on the full-frame camera. That is why, the extended focal duration of this lens (when when compared with a full-frame 24-70mm lens) is quite useful, giving increased background blur and also a very flattering focal time-span for subjects such as portraiture. When used open, this lens presents beautiful rounded bokeh and also a generally pleasing look for out-of-focus backgrounds.

Provided with the lens is often a petal-shape lens hood that helps to reduce flare along with increase contrast. The particular lens features Fuji’s Nano-GI along with Super EBC Films, which do an amazing job of scaling down flare. I found any time shooting with direct sunlight in the top corner of the frame, I was still in a position to retain a good amount of contrast with just a minute amount associated with lens flare obvious.

It’s also worth noting that this Fuji 16-55mm lens doesn’t feature just about any optical stabilisation, because the company felt that adding it will compromise the optical quality of the lens. While this is true, other companies have were able to achieve fast zoom lens lenses with stabilisation that are optically very good – as an example, Samsung’s 16-50mm f/2-2. 8 S ED OIS for the NX series associated with mirrorless cameras.


Assumed Nikon 1 J5 mirrorless specifications before announcement

No comments:

Amateur photography - Not very much is really known regarding the Nikon 1 J5 mirrorless digicam, although there have been 1 or 2 rumors. The latest could have us believe that its announcement could come as early as April 2nd, which can be next Thursday, although its relieve date might come slightly later than that.

Ahead of that assumed announcement in the near future we thought we would have a little recap on the we believe the particular Nikon 1 J5 specs may be, and they do are most often rather impressive.

What we could expect – 4K video is usually a must, while there was confusion to the sensor, as we could either see 20. 8-megapixel or perhaps 28MP. A touchscreen display can be an almost certainty, as is built-in Wi-fi and NFC for improved connectivity.

Looking over those specs we assume that a 20. 8-megapixel is more plausible also it a slightly greater jump than the predecessor the Nikon 1 J4, which was only 18MP. You might wonder how you have such low megapixels with a 4K camera, but you can still do this with much decrease pixels.

This is approximately we can inform you for now, but we can keep you informed, and hope make fish an announcement will take place in the beginning of next month.

3/25/2015

Review: Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II

No comments:

Review: Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II

review: Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II
Amateur Photography - Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II Reviews, Among a season of good cameras last year from Sony, Samsung and Fujifilm was Olympus’ OM-D E-M5 Mark II. This is one micro four-thirds mirrorless camera can shoot images at a resolution of up to 40 megapixels.

And unlike the updated models from rivals, Olympus took its original E-M5 and redesigned it completely. On the top plate now, you get a new lock for whatever mode you are shooting in.

It is a switchable lock so those prefer to change settings quickly won’t feel hindered while those who want to be a bit more careful can lock the dial during transit.

The new Mark II camera also has more custom functions and shortcut buttons that make it feel like a professional camera, rather than just one for the enthusiast.

The improvements are not only skin deep. The E-M5 Mark II has 81 auto-focusing points, up from the previous 35. It also boasts a new five-axis sensor-shift image stabilisation system, as well a new Hi Res Mode.

When I tried it out, the camera generally performed well in most circumstances, at least those that I think a typical shooter would be used in. The focusing snaps to attention and the colour reproduction is very punchy.

Speaking of Hi Res Mode, Olympus has an out-of-the-box answer to the super high pixel counts from digital SLR rivals such as the Nikon D810’s 36 megapixels and the upcoming Canon 5DS’ whopping 50 megapixels.

It has managed to use its 16-megapixel sensor and to produce eight slightly different shots of a scene and combine them into a single image. The good news is that the Hi Res Mode works. Bad news is, the subject and camera have to be absolutely still.

The RAW processing for the high resolution images takes a toll on both the camera and computer. For the camera, you can expect battery power to be used up faster, which was the case when I tested the Hi Res mode recently.

For every shot, it requires about half a minute for the picture to be taken and saved into the memory card. That’s not counting the time to set up the tripod to ensure the camera doesn’t move too.

To convert the RAW file, I have to download a plug-in for Photoshop and import it into the program. This may be a bit too troublesome for many users.

For those who have big hands or appreciate having a more secure grip, having the external grip will cause the camera to be taller by an inch but it will greatly enhance stability while taking photos. If you are using the Hi Res mode, do consider getting the battery pack as well.

And the new Olympus offering may also be a bit too expensive of an upgrade for existing E-M5 users. Sure, the Hi Res mode is a unique feature for such a small-sensor camera, but it has some serious practical issues.

You won’t need all the megapixel count unless you are printing big. And you can only use it if the camera and subject both keep still.

Nikon Coolpix S9900 Review

No comments:

Nikon Coolpix S9900 Review


Amateur Photography - The Nikon Coolpix S9900 is the new top-of-the-range digital compact camera from the Style series. It features a back-illuminated 16 megapixel CMOS sensor, 30x optical zoom lens, Full 1080/60i HD video with new time-lapse recording, built-in WiFi, GPS and NFC connectivity, P/S/A/M exposure modes, a command dial and a 3-inch 921K dot vari-angle screen. The Nikon Coolpix S9900.

Ease of Use


Even more packed with technology than its predecessor, the new Coolpix S9900 looks like it would be more at home in Nikon's Performance range. However, the P series of Nikon cameras are for keen enthusiasts and as such, don't really offer much in the way of easy modes for the point and shooters. The S9900 still offers the Easy Auto mode, albeit buried somewhat n the menu system.

The S9900 bears an uncanny resemblance to the higher specification models in terms of shape and design. Weighing nearly 300g, it's a heavy block of metal and plastic which holds a 30x optical zoom inside the bulge at the front. The lenses contain ED (Extra-low Dispersion) elements to reduce chromatic aberrations and the focal length works out at an eye bulging 25-750mm in 35mm terms.

We hear you asking “What about camera shake?” Well, the S9900 has been fitted with a 5-axis Hybrid VR system. This type of Vibration Reduction of combining electronic and optical image stabilisers isn't new but using 5 ways of stabilising the image is on a camera at this designation.

Once the light has gone through the lens, it burns onto a back-illuminated 16 megapixel CMOS sensor. In the past, some Nikon compacts have suffered with low light and high noise problems, so hopefully, this sensor that is lower in resolution than previous models will react better. The back-illuminated technology will also help by allowing more light onto each photosite, but our noise test will give the definite answer.

No expense has been spared on the screen incorporating a 921,000 dot RGBW TFT LCD screen which can even be used in direct sunlight. One big upgrade over the previous S9700 model is that the screen is now a vari-angle model, which is perfect for shooting movies, over the heads of a crowd and of course for those all-important selfies.

As we mentioned earlier, the S9900 sits on the Style side of the fence, but it's also very close to the Performance series. Because of this intimacy with both ranges, the S9900 has a mixture of lazy modes and performance enhancing features. On the top plate, you'll find the power switch and shutter release with a small finger-operated switch that operates that massive zoom range.

Situated to the left of the shutter release on the shoulder of the Nikon Coolpix S9900 is a Shooting Mode dial. It has the usual easy to use modes, such as Auto, Scenes, Smart portrait and Short Movie, but also holds the manual PASM modes. New to the S9900 is a dedicated command dial, which in conjunction with the rear navigation wheel makes it easier than ever to use the manual shooting modes.

On the opposite side to the Command dial is a pop-up flash that sits very high when opened via the dedicated switch. That's great for avoiding red-eye. However, it uses so many different joints to collapse down into the unit – which you have to do manually – it's like trying to get a cat into a bath; it's possible, but you'll have to wrestle a bit. The top of the camera also holds the WiFi and GPS unit above the lens.

The GPS button on the left flank of the S9900 displays a map of the World and allows you to not only log your photo's locations, but also track where you're going. Fantastic for travellers and that's exactly who the S9900 is aimed at, especially as it now utilises GPS/GLONASS/QZSS satellite tracking to provide highly accurate longitude and latitude data.

The S9900 also offers built-in wi-fi and NFC connectivity, with the former accessed via a button on the rear of the camera, and the latter simply by tapping the S9900 against another NFC-enabled device. The wi-fi options are a little basic - you can only connect or upload to a smart device - but they do at least make it easier to share your photos.

The main menu system changes depending on the shooting mode that you're currently in. It has the usual layout of three sections with the primary menus tabbed down the left side. The centre section shows what each tab can offer, while the right side shows the current setting for that option. Pressing right drills into the menu and allows you to make any changes. The colour scheme is light grey on the centre section with dark grey surround and a yellow highlighter. Those colours may not sound appealing, but they work nicely and the menu is very easy to see and use. The five tabs on the left are for the mode you're currently in, Video modes, WiFi, GPS and the Set-up menu.

Start up time from the off position to being switched on, focused and a photo taken is 1.8sec which is a good performance. There are two continuous shooting modes; High and Low. The first is a burst mode that rapidly fires off five high resolution pictures in just over half a second. It works out at roughly 8fps (frames per second). Slightly higher than the 6.9fps on the Nikon website, so that's pretty good. You do have to allow for human error, though, so keep an open mind. It takes a total of 10 seconds to download the pictures as well.

In Low mode, the camera takes pictures at a much slower rate. We got 16 pictures in eight seconds before the camera stopped to download. That's roughly 2fps and it took the camera up to 43 seconds to download and be ready to shoot again. This was going through the Nikon EXPEED C2 processor and writing onto a Class 4 Micro SD card in an adapter. The speed of the card will affect the write speed, so you may see a slight increase with a faster variation in.

In playback, the pictures will be displayed full size with some basic information that will disappear after a few seconds. Should you take a photo that you wish you'd added a digital effect to, you can press OK at this stage and add it on after. The added bonus is that the S9900 saves that as a separate file on the memory card, preserving the original. The layout of the Playback menu is the same as when you're shooting. However, there's a slight variation in the inclusion of the Mode tab.

The Playback modes are usually in a separate menu which is accessed via the Playback button. On the Nikon Coolpix S9900, doing that takes you back to the shooting screen. The Video menu has been replaced with the full Playback menu which allows you to amend the pictures with some basic editing via the Quick retouch, D-Lighting, Red-eye correction or Glamour retouch options. There's also provision to amend the print order, create a slide-show to thrill your family and friends of your travelling adventures.

In the box you'll find a rechargeable Li-ion Battery EN-EL12, Charging AC Adapter EH-71P4, USB Cable UC-E21, and a Camera Strap. Battery life is around 300 shots, pretty good for this class of camera, although we don't like the fact that you can now only charge the battery in-camera.